A Winter Guide to Kangaroo Island with Georgia Hopkins

This article is written by guest contributor Georgia Hopkins, founder of online travel platform It’s Beautiful Here. You can follow Georgia at @_itsbeautifulhere to discover all her favourite places to stay across Australia and beyond.

It was a privilege to spend some days on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island recently. Having not visited since the devastating bushfires of January 2020, it was uplifting and fascinating to see the island’s recovery.

Kangaroo Island is a true nature wonderland. The same size as Bali (a fact I learnt on this recent visit), its landscape changes dramatically from corner to corner, and there is wildlife aplenty. Nature lovers will delight in the conservation parks and natural wonders, including the Flinders Chase National Park and its Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch, the Kelly Hill Conservation Park and Seal Bay. As visitors, we are reminded to respect the land and fragile ecosystems that make up the island—taking care of the places, people, and animals that call Kangaroo Island home.

The 2020 bushfires combined with ongoing COVID-19 border closures have had a major impact on the island’s economy, and visitors are being very warmly welcomed and encouraged back to the island.

Stay

Dune House

The extraordinary Dune House can be found at Emu Bay on Kangaroo Island’s North Coast, just 15 minutes from the island's main town of Kingscote. There's something very special about Emu Bay, with its 4.5km stretch of clean white sand and sea, and there is something equally as special about Dune House.

An architecturally designed, contemporary home with knockout views, this is understated coastal charm at its finest. The view on arrival will take your breath away. Flooded with natural light, there is a sunken lounge, open fireplace, beautiful interiors, and of course that incredible view over the bay.

Owners Emily and Richard Young have poured so much thought into every little detail. I was completely obsessed with their collection of art, ceramics, and the most comfortable beds of all. You’ll also find beach towels, a picnic basket, stand up paddle boards, a jetty fishing kit, cricket equipment and a totem tennis set. In-house massages can be arranged, so too can private yoga sessions. There’s a BBQ on the deck and a full kitchen, so you can cook for yourself and relax either outside or by the fire in the evenings.

Kingscote Drakes is where you can stock up on food supplies, but if you are wanting any kind of specialty items, it is recommended you bring them over with you. Dune House provides all the pantry basics, and there is a selection of seasonal herbs in the garden, a Nespresso-style coffee machine, as well as a Zip tap for chilled and sparkling purified water.

I recommend taking a long walk on Emu Bay Beach, right to the end, and then clambering over the rocks to ‘Baldy’ (the point at the end of the beach which looks like an old bearded man’s face gazing up to the sky). It can take the best part of the day and is not unusual to spot dolphins cruising along the shore. Also, be sure to grab a coffee at the nearby Emu Bay Lavender Farm. It’s just down the road and a pretty place to enjoy the lavender-filled gardens.

Dine

False Cape Wines

For wine tasting and delicious platters in a pretty island setting, head to False Cape Wines. This is the largest vineyard on the island, covering more than 60 acres of land. I love this winery for its handcrafted cellar door, looking out over the vines, natural bushland, and its delicious shiraz. Oh, and its llama named Annie.

A 50-minute drive from Dune House, False Cape Wines can be found on the banks of the Willson River between Penneshaw and Cape Willoughby—a location chosen for its ideal soil conditions. False Cape Wines take pride in growing its grapes as naturally and organically as possible, with minimal intervention.

Other cellar doors I recommend include Dudley Wines (for its stunning views over the ocean); Kangaroo Island Brewery (for small-batch beer made on the island with great food and views, right near Kingscote); and Kangaroo Island Spirits, for delicious gins—some of Australia’s most awarded—distilled with native botanicals sourced from all over the island. This was South Australia’s first boutique gin distillery, established in 2005. You’ll find it in Cygnet River.

The Oyster Farm Shop

I love this iconic little shack in American Bay. Open daily from 11am–3pm, you’ll find an impressive showcase of fresh and abundant Kangaroo Island oysters and seafood–think local prawns, marron, abalone and King George whiting. The Oyster Farm Shop can be found at the American River Wharf. Grab a fresh seafood platter or some takeaway oysters, pack an esky to keep them cool, and take them back to Dune House to enjoy on the deck.

For the best fish and chips on the island though (‘if not the whole of South Australia’, as one local told me), head to the Ampol Service Station in Kingscote (believe it or not).

Sunset Food and Wine

Sunset Food and Wine is a modern Australian bistro in Penneshaw, about a 45-minute drive from Dune House, featuring seafood and local produce with stunning views over American Beach. As the name might suggest, it is best enjoyed at sunset. The team has access to quality local ingredients, and works closely with local food producers and growers from both Kangaroo Island and South Australia, using only what is in season. It was the first restaurant on Kangaroo Island to be awarded a Chef’s Hat from the Australian Good Food Guide back in 2017. If you are planning on visiting, keep in mind that the restaurant can be seasonal and may not be open at certain points throughout the year. I strongly recommend booking in advance.

Explore

Flinders Chase National Park

The Flinders Chase National Park is home to stunning coastal landscapes with commanding views over the Southern Ocean, as well as the iconic drawcards of Remarkable Rocks, Admirals Arch, and the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse. Sadly, majority of the National Park (approximately 96%) was burnt in the January 2020 bushfires, but the good news is that vegetation is regenerating and native animals are returning. Before you head here, keep up to date with what roads and areas of the park are open via the Kangaroo Island map.

The boulders of Remarkable Rocks are synonymous with Kangaroo Island. This geological phenomenon has been shaped by the erosive forces of wind, sea spray and rain over some 500 million years. I recommend visiting in the early morning or late afternoon to catch the best light over the rocks. You’ll find Admirals Arch nearby—a natural rock arch carved out by the relentless forces of the sea over thousands of years—and you might even see some New Zealand fur seals in the waters below, sunbaking on the edge of the water and playing in the rock pools.

My tip: Book your park access online ahead of time. It’s a decent mission down to this end of the island, so lots of snacks and plenty of water is definitely recommended.

Bales Beach

Bales Beach was one of the best local recommendations I received when arriving on the island. I was told it was a little off the beaten track and not as heavily touristed, so I headed straight there to catch the sunset on my first evening.

I arrived just before the sun went down and had the entire beach to myself. It’s beautiful. It can be found on the south coast of the island, just 1km off the Seal Bay Road. There’s a beautiful long stretch of sand, good surf and a small car park that provides direct access to the main beach (but no other facilities).

While on the beach, it's worth remembering that fishing is not permitted here. The restriction is due to the site being part of an Aquatic Reserve that is used to protect the breeding colony of Australian sea lions in the area.

Little Sahara Desert

The Little Sahara Desert is a series of wind-sculpted sand dunes that sprawl out towards the ocean. This naturally occurring, undulating dune network was formed about 7,000 years ago, and stretches two square kilometres. The tallest sand dune is about 70 metres high. Little Sahara was heritage listed in the 1970s to ensure it is well-preserved into the future.

Nearby, Vivonne Bay was once voted Australia’s best beach and is another beautiful place to visit. A long white sandy beach with dunes at the northern end, there’s a licensed beach kiosk that does an insanely good whiting burger.

Getting to Kangaroo Island

QantasLink flies from Adelaide to Kangaroo Island a few times a week (just a short 35-minute flight). There are also daily Sealink ferry services to Kangaroo Island and you can take your car with you. It’s a 45-minute trip from Cape Jervis on the Fleurieu Peninsula to Penneshaw on Kangaroo Island. Dune House is only 15-minute drive from Kingscote Airport, or about an hour’s drive from the Sealink ferry terminal in Penneshaw.