A Weekend in the Hunter Valley with Georgia Hopkins

After a long winter spent indoors, a summer amongst the vines sounds like the perfect escape.

Georgia Hopkins of It’s Beautiful Here recently visited the picturesque surrounds of the Hunter Valley—a region just getting back on its feet following the aftermath of the summer bushfires.

Here, Georgia shares her itinerary for a weekend in one of Australia’s largest wine regions, with notes on where to wine, dine and explore.

“I was blown away by the warmth of welcome I received on my recent visit to the Hunter Valley. Only 2 hours from Sydney or 50mins west of Newcastle airport, the Hunter Valley is wine country at its finest, home to 150+ wineries and more cellar doors than any other wine region in Australia. Having endured a long-lasting drought as well as the bushfires of last summer, locals seem to just be getting on with things. Their love and passion for the region is palpable. And somewhat surprisingly, despite its challenges— 2020 has in fact been a good year for most, with great (new and innovative) wines still being produced and visitor numbers remaining high.

The Hunter is best known around the world for its Semillon and Shiraz varietals but it’s more than just the wine that will lure you here. Its natural beauty is outstanding, with the intoxicating Broken Back mountain range as a constant backdrop, and the winding country roads taking you through fields of green. Here you will also find acclaimed restaurants, fresh local produce, and charming accommodation options.

My tip—plan your visit between a Wednesday through Monday as many of the restaurants and some cellar doors are closed on Monday and Tuesday. Also, thanks to COVID-19, it is now necessary to book in your cellar door visit in advance.”

Stay

Corunna Station

“I was very lucky to spend some days at the extraordinary Corunna Station. Established in 1880, this expansive property has been in owner Gerard Kesby’s family from then on. As the current custodians of the farm, Gerard and his wife Angela have spent the past 10 years lovingly restoring three of the farm houses on the property. The three luxury farm stay options include The Cook’s House which sleeps four, The Homestead which sleeps six, and The Country House which sleeps 10-12 (and if all three options are booked together, Corunna Station can sleep up to 22). I opted for The Homestead on my recent visit and it was the most glorious country home to arrive to.

Full of light and unbelievably immaculate, The Homestead offers understated luxury perfection in droves. Taking design cues from Australian Colonial meets designer India Hicks, Gerard and Angela have carefully curated the interiors themselves. Gerard’s half-Danish heritage shines through in the Danish furniture featured throughout. Everything is thoughtfully considered; from the furniture to the fireplace and the two claw-footed baths, to the full laundry, a kitchen fully equipped with endless utensils and a pantry full of supplies, to a coffee machine, and the most ridiculously comfortable beds, pillows and linens I think I have ever experienced.

I loved sitting on the verandah at dusk watching the resident kangaroos do their thing, while sipping on a wine and watching the sun go down over the original agricultural buildings on the property including the saw mill and the vast shearing shed. What was once the largest sheep shearing station in the Hunter Valley is now a stunning 100-acre property that makes for a very special, very luxe and laid-back wine country experience. It’s very beautiful here.”

Explore

Usher Tinkler Wines

“It was such a joy to stumble across this cute cellar door. Housed in a little blue church in Pokolbin that dates back to 1905, Usher Tinkler Wines is a celebration of the namesake winemaker’s innovative winemaking style and his passion for the land. Sharing the same name as both his father and his grandfather, Usher Tinkler makes up three generations of farming expertise; the dairyman, the cattleman and now, the winemaker. With records spinning in the corner, a gorgeous subway-tile backed bar full of wine and whiskey bottles and colourful jars of picked veg, Usher Tinkler’s cellar door is friendly and laid-back. With big lofty windows looking over the vines and out to the mountains, it’s a lovely place to sit and enjoy delicious cheese and salumi boards. Tristan, the host, was super friendly and knowledgeable and happily chatted about the history of the brand and the wines we see today. He also talked me through the beautiful tactile artworks on the wall—crafted by Usher’s cousin, Sydney artist Craig Waddell. My favourite of all the wines was the La Volpe Prosecco, fresh and perfect for summer. Don’t miss this.”

Krinklewood Estate

“Krinklewood Estate feels more like something you would find rambling around the rolling vineyards of Provence in southeastern France. A beautiful French-inspired boutique winery and cellar door, Krinklewood is set amongst Provençal-style gardens, urns and fountains with the Wollombi Brook and Broken Back Range in the background.

The Krinklewood wines are certified biodynamic (since 2007), and every aspect of the vineyard and farm is managed in a biodynamic, organic, holistic and sustainable way. Krinklewood is a true showcase of sustainability. The cellar door staff offered impeccable and very friendly service, and I was very lucky to meet the new owner of the property, Oscar Martin (co-founder of Pedestrian TV) who took over ownership just three months ago. Oscar has big plans for the property, working with acclaimed eco-architect Peter Stutchbury to build 17 eco cabins, a bath house, and a stage for hosting cultural events, so guests can enjoy the wine whilst also discovering what it is like to live sustainably and in harmony with nature. He also has plans for a cafe, kitchen garden and wine bar. Krinklewood’s Sparkling Blanc de Blanc went down perfectly on the day of my visit. This place is utterly romantic and I can’t wait to return.”

Vinden Estate

“A charming cellar door, I was warmly welcomed by Eli— an impeccable host and good mate of 30-year old winemaker Angus Vinden—who talked me through Vinden Estate’s three labels: Vinden Wines (its heritage brand); Headcase (Angus’ progressive label); and Headcase Experimental (an outlet for Angus to get super creative and whacky). The Experimental wine labels have only a black and white headshot of Angus’ face taken at the end of each harvest with a facial expression to match. The plan is to see how his face changes and ages with each harvest over the next 10 years! Angus, who is Hunter Valley born and bred, took over the reins from his father who established the vineyard and winery back in the 1990s. He was named as one of the top 50 Young Guns of Wine. I was a big fan of the Vinden Headcase Single Barrel Shiraz—on the lighter side and very easy to drink. I definitely recommend a visit here (and they have accommodation as well).”

Dine

Muse Kitchen

“To arrive at Muse Kitchen at Keith Tulloch Winery is to feel like you are in the Napa Valley of California (or that is certainly how it felt for me). Here you’ll find a very pretty looking European Bistro style restaurant surrounded by a manicured garden. I opted to sit outside under the shady umbrellas to enjoy a 3-course set menu lunch (the only option for your dining experience). Chef Josh Gregory is passionate about using local ingredients and his ever-changing menu showcases the finest produce of the season. Muse’s staff are incredibly professional and the service is impeccable. I loved the Kingfish tartare with blood lime, yuzu and basil for entree, and the Cowra lamb rack with white bean, green olive tapenade, salsa verde for main. It’s very beautiful there. Pop over to the chocolate shop next door to take home some delicious choccie treats after lunch.”

Bistro Molines

“Robert Molines is the most storied chef in the Hunter Valley. His restaurant, Bistro Molines, is a Hunter Valley institution and has been awarded the Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Chef’s Hat every year for the past 10 years. Sitting pretty within Carillion’s Tallavera Grove winery, in a pretty little pocket of the Hunter known as Mount View, Bistro Molines has a very Provençal feel. You could definitely be forgiven for thinking you were in the south of France as you look out over the patchwork of Hunter Valley terraced vineyards and green rolling hills. Robert’s menu can be described as sophisticated-yet-rustic French Provençal. It’s seasonally driven and showcases locally sourced produce, herbs and veggies from the restaurant kitchen garden, and eggs from its own chickens. This is one not to miss. Reservations are essential.”

Leaves & Fishes

“Leaves & Fishes is a charming restaurant, store and accommodation in the little Hunter Valley town of Lovedale. Opening back in 2004, Leaves & Fishes Restaurant offers a casual and relaxed dining experience with a seafood-inspired menu. You can choose to dine indoors or outside amongst its gorgeous grounds. It’s open for lunch Thursday-Monday, and reservations are not required. After lunch, check out The Store (open Friday-Sunday from 10am-3pm) for its gorgeous selection of homewares, fashion and furniture, all inspired by The Restaurant and The Boathouse accommodation on site.”